Latest Update: 12Oct2021 12:00pm Pacific Time
1913 Lienhard Brocade Engine
#737
$6800 USD OBO

Trades may be considered

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I purchased this at an auction in Rhode Island from a closing jewelry company. It was listed as broken, needing repair. I purchased it with the intent of using it for backup parts for my current large brocade engine. After starting to tear it down and take a look at it I realized that this machine was in too good of condition to use as a parts machine... but I really don't have room for two of these monsters, so off it goes.

Sample piece made on this machine: 1" fine silver

Finished sample piece

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I have ultrasonically cleaned every screw, gear, washer and all other small parts on the machine. It did not look good when I received it, but the bones of it are beyond nice original. Most all of the ways, including the pattern follower, are in very good condition with another century worth of wear available. I have always believed my personal machine was in excellent condition... this one is better. If I wasn't so attached to the other machine (and the fact that it is a smidge bigger than this one) I might have kept this one, instead.

The grey bits of the machine are all fresh paint. The black paint on this machine is still all original. This machine is to the point where it can provide someone with a lifetime of enjoyment the way it is. You could make a few small  improvments if you wish.

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This screw could be remade if you want. The threaded shaft is bent but it screws most of the way on and does not have any detrimental effect on the machine's use.

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This slide only has 2 tightening crews rather than the original 3. The center one is missing. Both adjustment screws are there, so, in the end it does not effect usage.

Other

 

If I think of other things to mention I will add them to the bottom of this web page so it is visible to all. I will post more images below. If there is something interesting to say about them I will make a comment. Please feel free to ask questions and I will supply whatever answers and images I can.

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The second rosette from the left does have teeth cut into it - two sets of about 6 teeth, I believe, cut 180 degrees apart. It makes a nice background that looks like a 6 legged spiral galaxy!

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Some of the later machines have this spiral spring pressing the worm against the table gear like this one does. It is much smoother and easier to use than the leaf type spring on my personal machine... I may have to convert mine some day! Yes, the black paint is original.

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Sorry, the pattern shown is staying with me. One of my favorites. I will provide a pattern (three, actually) for you to play around with to figure out the machine. The spring shown in this image was a modification by the jewelry company. It works fine with the added benefit of adjustability unlike the original.

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This is a view through the rear pulley used to drive the machine.

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I've seen this before - the big brass weight. It is placed to help counterbalance the worm mechanism. I do not know if this is factory or not. Anyone know? You can see the brass cup is missing on the rear oiler. This does not effect the ability to run the machine.

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Again, do not know if this is original or a modification by the jeweler, but the arm that rides on this mechanism to move the cutter in the toolbox in and out has a ball bearing on it. Either way it is super nice and I've already figured out how to modify my personal machine with this upgrade.

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The handle on the large front to back dovetail ways is missing. It would be easy to modify something off the shelf but I challenge you to make something more original looking. Again, all the black paint is original. The chuck is staying with me and belongs on my personal brocade engine.

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The hand wheel and belt are from my Lienhard rose engine and are staying with me. The motor that was used at the jewelry factory is set up and running the brocade engine at currently. This image was taken before I got the motor back on and running.

Now, for the details... currently located in Nelson, BC Canada. I have a broker I trust that has transported several ET/OT machines over the border for me in both directions at reasonable cost and has dealt well with getting items in and out of my current little mountain town. I will provide you with their info if wanted.

 

The machine is currently on a pallet which you get along with the machine. If you want it boxed I will build a custom box at the going rate of $500. That's what I paid to have it boxed - but I won't give you a piece of crap like I received. It will be much nicer.

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Answered Questions & Additional Info

 

Size of the machine

Swing over the gears is 20". If you place a thin chucking system and you are engraving something thin (ex: platter) on the arbor you can get about 28" out of it. The machine weights in at about 1200lbs with an envelope of ~ 55" tall, 55" deep and 36" wide.

What are the sizes of the patterns?

This machine takes the standard 5.5" pattern as well as the larger 8" patterns.

How do the patterns differ from smaller machines?

The smaller machines use 5.5", and if they have an adapter, 3" patterns.

What are the benefits of a larger pattern?

I, myself, have never seen an original antique 8" pattern. I have  mostly made 5.5" patterns for my work. I came to appreciate 8" patterns for two reasons: a) It allows more pattern over a larger area which can come in handy for larger pieces and b) you can get finer details onto a piece. For example:

 

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The overall diameter of this piece is 5.5". The engraving within the wings is straight line work but the rest is brocaded. Look at the details on the thorax of the dragonfly. I could not do an engraving this detailed at this size with a 5.5" pattern. And, in fact, this detail carries down to small sized engravings, too.

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This series of 3.5" diameter wine glass coasters needed to be very crisp for the client. I originally started this off with a 5.5" pattern and it just didn't look good enough. I moved to a 8" pattern and it turned out fabulous.

The limiting factor for details is the speed of engraving and the tip of the pattern follower. A really fine tip will wear itself and the pattern very fast. A tip with an acute angle will be hard to get in and out of the valleys and wear the pattern quickly. A larger pattern provides the ability to both create finer details and have a well proportioned pattern follower so the pattern and follower have normal wear. It is also a lot less finicky to adjust.

Does this do background and a foreground image?

It holds one pattern and the rosette wheel. The pattern is the foreground and the rosette creates the background. I have made single patterns with either a 3D pattern or a pattern with steps to give multiple depths in an engraved image.

You mentioned quite a few components that you don’t want to go with the machine

Hmmm - I believe the only things not going with the machine are the hand crank that I temporarily grabbed off a Rose Engine (the motor attached by the jewelry manufacturer is currently set up in its place) and the chuck that I use with another machine.

 

As far as running the machine - the motor and all electrical components that I received with the machine that the factory used to run it will go with it. The motor is a 1950'sish 1750 rpm motor. The motor runs smooth and powers the brocade engine just fine.

This machine has all the functionality as when I received it from the factory site. There were a couple of items that came with the machine (I'm pretty sure they were thrown into the auction by the auctioneer that random) that never belonged with this machine and do not fit. I'm still trying to understand what one of them does but it is obviously not even a Lienhard made item and there is no way to affix it to this machine.

How difficult are patterns to make?

Ways to make patterns...

  • Original patterns, of which I only own about 7 or 8, are all cast out of brass or bronze and they hold up well for extended use.

  • If a pattern needs last for limited quantities (say, 100-150 parts) and hold fine detail, I tend to machine them out of 6061 T6 aluminum.

  • If they are somewhat simple and you only need 20 or less parts out of them - machine them in a hard plastic such as ABS, Plexiglass/acrylic works well.

  • It is more then possible to cut pieces of acrylic (about 1/8") and adhere them to another piece of 5.5" or 7" diameter 1/8" acrylic.

  • I have seen lots of factory made patterns where they cut ~1/8" thick pieces of brass (or bronze) to size and shape and then solder (and sometimes pin them) them to a 5.5" or 7" diameter 1/8" piece of brass (or bronze), These hold up superb (as well as cast patterns) and are easy to make.

  • I have also seen plenty of patterns with a combination of machining a pattern into a flat bronze plate and then soldering fret sawed decorative pieces onto it.

  • I know of at least one person who is having good luck with casting patterns out of acrylic.

  • Use your imagination with the tools you have like every guilloche' job shop in the world has done. I have even seen a person use commercial perforated steel sheet of various patterns and it was freakin' awesome!

 

 

Patterns

I looked around and found a nice variety of patterns for the new owner to try out.

 

There is a pattern cut from MDF and covered in epoxy. I know a gent that uses this method for a pattern that is constantly used. He just puts another coat of epoxy on it as it wears.

There is a plastic pattern - I believe it is ABS.

And, a machined aluminum pattern.

This way the new owner gets to try out various pattern types and see what works best for them.

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Lately, I've been using this machine for client work rather than my personal machine to run it through the paces. Its a sweet machine that runs really well.

Motor and Electrical: I have attached the motor and electrical that I received with the machine. The motor runs smooth, quiet and spins the Brocade Engine easily.

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Out of curiosity, I did a little research - the newest this motor can be is ~ 1923. See info on the company here: https://www.madeinchicagomuseum.com/single-post/addressograph-co/ 

Settings

 

I was asked to discuss the machines settings.  LOTS of adjustments on these guys. I'll just go through my typical procedure for getting something engraved.

1) set in the pattern you want and center it in the pattern holder

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2) Center the pattern follower

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3) Adjust the follower on the background rosette so it is in contact in the deep recesses of the pattern but is fully disengaged when the pattern follower is on the pattern high spots.

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4) Center the cutter to the piece to be engraved by moving the cross slide left and right with this handle

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5) Center the cutter to the piece to be engraved by moving the graver up and down with this screw

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This screws adjust the depth of cut by moving the geed/guide/follower in and out

6) Adjust the pantograph for the diameter of the design you are cutting. This is a reference only as pattern diameters are rarely perfect nor calibrated for the machines pantograph

Set this to the correct pattern size (5.5" or 8" - in millimeters). The arm is marked for correct positioning.

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Tighten this last to preserve your settings

Set this to outer diameter to be engraved - it is marked in millimeters.

7) Use this same handle once again to move the cross-slide to the outside diameter of the engraving

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8) Engrave! 1.5" engraving made on this machine. The video above used the same pattern but is 1" in diameter

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